Maui, North Shore
Hawaii

Napili-Honokowai, Maui

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This trip existed for approximately 61 hours before departure. We were supposed to spend the weekend in Steamboat, but didn't want to spend five hours in the car. So we looked at a bunch of different places to fly to and found the best flights to Maui.

Maui is one of those places that gets better with each visit. The air feels fresh, it's natural, and the infrastructure is built just enough to have what you need and not much more. It feels like the perfect balance of amenities and natural landscape. It's on island time, but it doesn't feel gimmicky or performative. It's just simple, natural, fresh, and fun. It feels easy, and I think that's why a long weekend trip to Maui feels doable.

Wake up early. Rent a cool car.

Waking up early early is the move. 4amish. The time before the world starts turning is my favorite part of any day, and Maui highlights that more than almost anywhere. Moody weather. Empty beaches. Frequent rain. Rainbows. Coffee. Fresh, warm air. Birds chirping. Those are the things you miss after sunrise. A spot at 5am is a completely different place at 9am.

A convertible makes Maui feel like the beach. Worth every dollar.

Snorkeling

Black Rock Beach in Kaanapali was not the move. Long walk from the car, expensive parking, resort area packed with commercial high-rises. The whole thing felt like a chore. Would not go back.

Airport Beach reminds you that snorkeling is supposed to be fun. Easy, free parking, restrooms, not as busy, much shorter walk to the water. Clear, calm water and a sea turtle or two.

Honolua Bay is a reward for getting up early. Requires early arrival for parking and a short walk through the forest. Once you're there, the goods are good, pretty reefs, unique fish, turtles.

The blowhole: We didn't do the hike, so I can't really speak to it. But you pay for parking, I got slightly carsick on the drive, and it wasn't that impressive from the parking lot. Would probably skip next time, but I've heard it's actually a really great hike.

Stays

An Airbnb in Napili Bay for the first stretch. I'd stay in Napili again without a doubt, on the water, a beach-side path for miles, Snorkel Bob's and Island Vibes Cafe right there, and so many turtles from the lanai. The water wasn't crystal clear, but I'm more than happy to trade that for sea turtles and a lanai. The listing makes it look a bit more modern than it actually is, but still amazing nonetheless.

The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua for the end of the trip. It's not where I'd spend my whole trip, but it's sure where I'd end one. If you're going to be out and about all day, it's not worth paying for or blowing points on. But it's perfect for winding down before a redeye flight. You can't compete with a Ritz bed, an amazing pool, and great food, the Burger Shack, to end a trip.

Eats

Miso Phat Sushi: superb, but too crowded for dinner (takeout only past a certain point). Great for lunch if you get there when they open at 11:30.

Captain Jack's: I'll admit, I thought it was going to be a beachy TGI Fridays. It was late, I was hangry, and it was right across the street from Miso Phat. It ended up being one of my favorite meals of the trip. Ocean views, poolside, and tacos good enough to write about. Huge, great flavor, didn't fall apart. Great value. I wanted to go back for lunch the next day.

Merrimans: Loved the creme brulee and you can order a surprise lei to be delivered during dinner. The meal was amazing, and it overlooks the Kapalua bay with gorgeous views.

Mala: It's a gem. Make a reservation. (There's a Safeway right across the street to get groceries.)

Ulana Terrace (Ritz): An acai bowl is $30. Skip it.

Baya Bowls (Ritz-esq): right down the hill past the Burger Shack on the right, locally owned, and the topping options are way better.

The Banyan Tree (Ritz): ohmygodbecky. The steak is cooked on a special grill giving it incredible flavor. The curry was so good and the octopus was insane. Banana cheesecake was fine, wouldn't order it again.

The Burger Shack (Ritz): loved for lunch. The GF burger was even good.

Island Vibes Cafe: loved for breakfast. Averaged around $60 a meal, but worth it. Acai bowl, smoothie, coconut water, and a coffee or banana bread every morning.

Mama's Fish House: they're booked six months in advance. Since we booked the trip a few days out there was nothing available, but I kept refreshing for cancellations and snagged a reservation for our last night. It's just so good. Authentic, old in a way that gives it real character, local ingredients. They list the boat your fish was caught from on the menu. The curry is out of this world and it's the best piña colada I've ever had. Open air, good views, busy but never overcrowded, excellent wait staff. This is the one place I'd revolve the entire trip around.

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